A fitted bodice, a defined waist and a skirt that takes up the whole aisle: the ball gown is the dress most women picture first when they imagine their wedding dress. Yet it has a thousand faces, from airy tulle to sculpted satin. The secret is choosing the right volume for the right venue, and knowing how to live in it from morning until the last dance.
- A ball gown pairs a fitted bodice with a very full skirt that starts at the waist.
- Tulle gives light volume; satin and taffeta give structured, heavier volume.
- A pointed basque waist lengthens the torso and visually slims.
- The bigger the venue, the bigger the skirt can be: a church or château welcomes it better than a small room.
- Ball gown or princess dress: what is it?
- Tulle, satin, taffeta: three kinds of volume
- The waistline changes everything
- How much volume for your venue
- Sitting, dancing, travelling
- Veil and accessories
- Our selection
- Your questions
Ball gown or princess dress: what is it?
In English you will see both "ball gown" and "princess wedding dress" for the same silhouette: a bodice fitted down to the waist, then a skirt that opens wide and falls to the floor. Dressmakers also use "princess line" for a dress shaped by vertical seams with no waist seam; in a bridal boutique, though, "princess" almost always means the full-skirted gown.
What sets it apart from an A-line is the fullness. An A-line flares gently, in a straight line; a ball gown blooms all at once at the waist and keeps its volume to the hem. If you are still torn between the two, our guide to wedding dress silhouettes puts them side by side.
Tulle, satin, taffeta: three kinds of volume
Two ball gowns with the same cut can look as if they had nothing in common. It all comes down to the fabric of the skirt.
| Fabric | The volume | The weight | The look |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tulle | Cloud-like, built in layers | Light | Romantic, airy, moves with every step |
| Satin | Sculpted, crisp glossy folds | Heavy | Classic, couture, very photogenic |
| Taffeta | Puffed, rustling, often picked up in drapes | Medium | 1950s, joyful, a little theatrical |
| Lace over tulle | Soft, textured | Light to medium | Romantic, ideal for church |
For a long day or a summer wedding, tulle remains the most comfortable choice. For a winter ceremony or a very formal venue, satin has unmatched presence. Our lace wedding dress guide also covers the laces laid over ball gown skirts.
The waistline changes everything
In a ball gown the eye goes to the skirt first. But the waistline decides the silhouette, because that is where the volume begins.
Natural
The classic: it marks the narrowest point of the waist and suits almost every figure.
Basque
A point that dips below the natural waist: it lengthens the torso, slims and looks very couture.
Empire or dropped
Under the bust for a softer feel; on the hips for a long, elongated line.
To find the waistline that flatters you, our guide to the wedding dress for your body shape walks you through it, and our plus size wedding dress guide gives detailed advice on corsets.
How much volume for your venue
A ball gown skirt takes up space, quite literally: in the aisle, in the car, on the dance floor. Before choosing the volume, think about the setting.
- Church, cathedral, château: full volume and a cathedral train belong here. For a religious ceremony, see our church wedding dress code guide too.
- Country estate, reception hall: medium volume in tulle and a chapel train, to move easily between tables.
- Garden, beach, countryside: light tulle and a short train that will not gather sand or wet grass.
- Town hall: the room is often small, so a two-in-one dress or a softer skirt is more practical. Everything is explained in our guide to two-in-one wedding dresses.
The right volume is not the biggest one: it is the one that fills your venue without stopping you living in it.
Sitting, dancing, travelling
A ball gown is easy to wear all day, as long as you know three gestures.
- Sitting: gather the skirt behind you, sit on the edge of the chair, let the volume fall in front.
- Getting into a car: sit in backwards, then bring the skirt in with both hands; a roomy car avoids creasing.
- Dancing: bustle the train with a loop or hooks sewn inside the skirt.
- Walking: nudge the skirt forward with your toe at each step, especially on stairs.
Ask for pockets. A ball gown hides them perfectly in its folds, and you finally have somewhere for your lipstick and a handkerchief. Our Grosbois has them, for example.
For a destination wedding, the skirt travels folded in a garment bag in the cabin, then is steamed from the inside on arrival. Just plan to unpack it the day before.
Veil and accessories
A full skirt calls for a veil that goes with it: a chapel or cathedral veil extends the volume down the aisle, while a fingertip veil lightens the look if the bodice is heavily embroidered. Our veil length guide helps you decide. For jewellery, a strapless ball gown leaves room for statement earrings; with a collar or sleeves, keep it discreet. And if the day turns cold, a stole or cape keeps the line intact: see our guide to capes, boleros and shawls.
Our selection
Six ball gowns, from draped tulle to corseted satin, made to your measurements or in your standard size.
La BourbansaisLace straps, pearls, tulle skirt, scalloped hemSee the dress →
Saint-Germain-de-LivetStrapless lace corset, basque waist, cathedral trainSee the dress →
MontgeoffroyDraped tulle, off the shoulder, pleated sweetheartSee the dress →
GrosboisPick-up taffeta skirt, tie straps, pocketsSee the dress →
BusséolBoned satin corset, box pleats, chapel trainSee the dress →
VallaurisBeaded corset, scalloped sweetheart, glossy satin skirtSee the dress →
Your questions
What is the difference between a ball gown and an A-line wedding dress?
A ball gown has a fitted bodice and a very full skirt that starts at the waist. An A-line flares more gently, in a straight line from the bodice: less volume, more lightness. Our silhouettes guide compares them.
Can petite brides wear a ball gown?
Yes, as long as the volume is measured: a skirt in light tulle rather than heavy satin, a basque waist that lengthens the torso, and a sweep or chapel train. Avoid very wide petticoats that overwhelm the frame.
Are ball gown wedding dresses heavy?
It depends on the fabric. Several layers of tulle stay light; satin, taffeta and embroidered skirts weigh more. If you plan to dance for hours, choose tulle or make sure the train can be bustled.
How do you sit down in a ball gown?
Gather the skirt behind you with both hands, sit on the edge of the chair, then let the volume fall in front. For the bathroom, a friend or a slip-on skirt holder makes all the difference.
Which veil goes with a ball gown?
A chapel or cathedral veil extends the volume; a fingertip veil lightens the look if the dress is heavily embellished. Every length is in our veil length guide.
Can I wear a ball gown to a civil ceremony?
Yes, if the room allows it. Many brides choose a lighter look for the town hall, or a two-in-one dress with a detachable overskirt. See our civil wedding dress guide.
More than one hundred and fifty ball gowns, cut to your measurements.
See princess wedding dresses
